WAIT WEIGHT WHAT? : SELF-CARE CHRONICLES PART 1

It has been nearly a year since I arrived in Benin (my word!) so I thought it was a good time to do a post on all things #selfcare that have happened in the past year. For any curious friends and family or even a future Volunteer, this two-part chronicle is a look at how I am navigating food, health, and self in Benin.

Om Nom Nom – Bon apple tea! A successful day at the market is one in which I come back home with a bag full of veggies and fruits - two food groups that I have definitely gained a greater appreciation for since my arrival. My village doesn’t have a ton of vegetables outside of onions and tomatoes, so I sometimes take a zem ride to the village over since it has a much larger selection. Depending on where you are in Benin, access to these foods can be challenging for Volunteers, particularly those living in northern Benin. (That's me, hi.) This is in part due to the drier climate, varied soil composition and eating habits of those living in the village itself. However, when one does find veggies and fruits, it’s lovely. I can't help but smile as I head back to my village with my treasures in tow. After nearly a year, I'm also convinced that fruits here are somehow fresher than in the States. Goodness, the pineapples are so sweet, not acidic at all! But I digress.

Generally speaking, life in-village forces me to eat fresh. I don’t have a fridge so I have to be smart with how many veggies and fruits I buy until the next trip, how to store all of my goods in the kitchen, and how to cook the right amount. I store my fresh foods in a silver basin with a colander placed on top of my veggies and fruits like a dome, and finally rest my cutting board on top. Mice have yet to figure out how to penetrate this innovative fortress which is just the way I like it.

The national staple in Benin is called pâte – corn flour stirred in hot water to get a consistency of something akin to mashed potatoes. Pâte blanche is the typical form while pâte rouge and pâte noire (pictured) have additional ingredients including tomatoes and seasonings to make them red and black respectively. Pâte is then eaten with a sauce – peanut sauces, sesame, okra, etc. – along with fish/meat/soy cheese and/or veggies if available. Ignam pilée, or pounded yam, (pictured) is also paired with a sauce and is a favorite of many PCVs. Other typical foods found in meals include rice, spaghetti, eggs, tomatoes, and onions. For my fellow Nigerians out there, the food isn't too different from our own. I've found that the sauces are slightly more watered down and have different flavors. Eba (gari stirred with hot water like pâte) also isn't super common. Otherwise, it's been a smooth transition. Here’s a link to my friend and fellow Volunteer’s blog post with even more on Beninese cuisine and what he cooks at site: C'est Doux!: An Introduction to Food in Benin. He is bien integré so he makes a lot of authentic dishes at site, all on his charcoal stove. That's Noah. Be like Noah.

In August, I challenged myself to look for the necessary ingredients in my village market to make all of the Nigerian foods I sorely missed. For instance, after some Googling, I discovered that while I typically use spinach in the States as the leafy greens used in the Nigerian dish okra soup, I had to look for Nigerian pumpkin leaves as a replacement, better known as ugu. Below are pics of ugu and okra, the finished okra soup with eba, and jollof rice. ‘Twas a good month for my stomach.

A lot of the dishes I make tend to be stir fries or tomato sauces. Finding sources of protein can be a bit of a challenge; eggs and canned sardines are my go-to’s in that regard. If I find an avocado, it’s a really good day because I can make one of my favorite quick dishes: Sautéed onions and tomatoes, seasoned to taste. Cut the avocado into squares/slices on a plate and mix in the sautéed onions and tomatoes. Fry an egg or two and toast some bread on the side. Cup of tea. Good to go. It’s funny to think that I did not like avocados before now. I also just recently got into making salads at site and it has been quite successful. Another fun cooking day was when I had leftover tortillas that I bought from a supermarket and later cut them into triangles and fried them on my non-stick pan (good investment) in-village. I found an avocado and voila, chips and guac!

Oatmeal is a quick fix, often featuring peanut butter, protein powder, and some honey.

Mango season is officially over but gosh was that a beautiful time of year. (I also wasn’t a huge fan of mangos before I got here. I know, I’m weird.) Unlike life in the States, one lives according to the seasons here. We are currently in corn season. Roasted, boiled, on-the-cob, mixed in with beans; corn is everywhere right now. The dish below is called kpwaya-yobi and it is très doux, so good!

Sometimes I'll head over to the village nearest to me to get lunch with my friend and fellow SAS Volunteer, Stuart. We typically head over to a restaurant serving ignam pilée or pâte noire with a sauce. Wash your hands and dig in, it’s delicious! Although Stu and I notoriously dig in too quickly; it’s hot!

There was a period of time where I made pancakes like crazy because I bought flour and baking powder for the first time and had a lot of honey from local beekeeping groups that I could use as substitute syrup. My neighbors and host family loved it! Although they were confused as to how we could eat something so sweet for breakfast. I have since lessened my pancake consumption.

When PCVs find themselves in larger cities like Cotonou or a Peace Corps workstation, we often treat ourselves to various delicacies ranging from burgers and fries to Indian food to pizza. If we're balling on a budget, you can find us visiting the nearest mama selling things such as rice and beans or a salad with all the fixins. I love splurging a bit on ice cream, but what else is new? In addition to my ice cream addiction, I have found a replacement for my love of Tostitoes chips and queso through knock-off Ritz crackers called Kritz paired with La Vache Qui Rit cheese. Snacking has always been a weakness of mine. (I’m working on it.) Which brings me to my next facet of self-care: fitness.

Tu as bien grossi! – You got fatter! People love to tell you that you’ve gained or lost weight. Especially tailors because they have all of your measurements. It’s very reminiscent of my extended family. I would travel to Nigeria every summer and sometimes my cousins would inform me, “Oh, you’ve gained wait.” I’d provide a strained smile in response. Then: “Do you want to eat dinner?” Well not now, thank you!

According to the Staying Healthy in Benin guidebook that we all received at the beginning of training, typically girls gain and boys lose weight. (boooo!) Of course, that isn't a foolproof statistic. I lost about 10 - 12 pounds during the first four months in Benin. However, I’m pretty sure I’ve put some of those pounds back on after growing habituated to the food and living. I still find that if we as PCVs are able to access veggies and fruits to supplement diets that are often full of starchy foods, we are ultimately consuming way less sugar and added sugars that end up in meals in the States.

The reality is that I and many PCVs are going through the rollercoaster ride of staying fit and defining how to be healthy just like we did stateside, but in another context. I’d like to give a shout-out to my Crossfit gym in Gainesville, LIV Athletic, for providing me with fitness lessons that I can apply wherever I go. Lessons like nutrition forgiveness, the importance of a warm-up and cool down, finding sources of accountability and consistency in health pursuits, and having a mindful workout. I miss the community at LIV tremendously; despite the withdrawals, I try my best to tap into the same intensity during workouts in my house or during runs and bike rides in-village. (This is a shameless plug for LIV Athletic: If you are in the Gainesville, Florida area and need a fitness push, please visit LIV. It’s more than a gym; it’s a fitness school and community like no other. You’re not just lifting weights. You’re discovering more about yourself and what real fitness is. Do it. End ad.)

Though I am far from the old fitness community I had, I’m building one petit à petit. On August 4th, several PCVs and I partook in a marathon weekend in the capital, Porto-Novo. I put on my ankle sleeve and successfully finished my first 10K! Next long-term goal: a half-marathon.

Any person on that fitness journey will tell you that working out is a great way to get in physical shape but it also inherently taps into one’s emotional well-being. Check out Part 2 of the self-care chronicles (to-be-uploaded in the coming weeks) if you’re curious about how I and other PCVs take care of ourselves in mind and spirit.

Until then, take care,

Chizoba